Panthenol, known as “the beautifier”, or Provitamin B5, is known as a cosmetic active with excellent anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. A smart addition to formulas for sensitive, irritated, and stressed skin. Panthenol is also VERY efficient, at 1-2%, for reducing redness as commonly seen in acne, rosacea, and in those with fair skin types. A must have for irritated skin, acne products, after-sun products, and aftershave products!
A worldwide innovator in specialty ingredients has just patented the chemistry to deliver the highest amount of actives deep into the layers of the skin. The “Revolution” delivery system offers unprecedented penetration and efficacy of Actives! Revolutions deliver actives efficacy that is 100 times that of non-encapsulated actives!!
- Cosmetic actives for skin care must penetrate into the skin in order to utilize their full potential. ·
- Vitamin Actives are not effective on the surface layers, and have a molecular size too large to penetrate a pore.
- When such actives remain only on the surface, they do not enter the skin in a sufficient concentration to create the desired effect.
Carrier systems have been developed to transport cosmetic actives into the skin. These systems ease the transport of actives through the skin barrier and, furthermore, deliver these actives in a sufficient concentration to the site of interaction. In times past, the cosmetic incorporation of vitamin additives has scarcely been more than a label claim. Why? Because the particle size was much too large to penetrate the skin. Yesterday’s answer? Liposomes. Liposomes are actives microencapsulated for higher skin penetration. This scientific advance offered some penetration, but the molecules were still too large for optimal delivery. Enter the “Revolution” system. This system encapsulates a lipid core by a phospholipid/co-surfactant monolayer membrane. The membrane consists of cylindric (phospholipid) molecules and cone-like (co-surfactant) molecules. These constituents create a very densely packed membrane of small sized, stable particles. Such particles are highly resistant against surface-active molecules and tolerant to elevated ionic strength. These properties are in contrast to those of the Liposome…and consequently, Revolution A, E & P are compatible with many emulsifiers and surfactants and tolerant to electrolytes and pH. Carrier systems are more effective if they provide an even and homogenous particle size distribution to the skin surface. If an active is offered to the skin by a particle of a size of 160 nm (as in a conventional carrier), 500 times more particles are needed to transport the same amount of an active, than if the particles have a size of 20 nm (as in the Revolution products).
What this means to the formulator:
- Maximal skin contact of active encapsulated into the Revolution system.
- Increased flux of active into the skin.
- add to the water phase or at cool down
- 2.0 to 5.0%
- Store tightly sealed and away from direct heat and light for 18 month shelf life